The History of Roquefort French Dressing
by Gary Allen Roquefort cheese has been made in the caves of Combalou, Roquefort-sur-Soulzon, at least since Gaul was occupied by the Romans — Pliny the Elder spoke highly of it, and he was not the...
View ArticleVenice: The Alternative to Italy’s Pasta
by Jonell Galloway No, I’m sorry. The staple of Venice is not pasta. Yes, in Italy, they eat pasta, but Venice and the neighboring Veneto region are relative newcomers to both pasta and Italy. Venice...
View ArticleLemons
by Marlena Spieler I come from a land — California — where lemons grow on trees. To buy them in a store would be ridiculous since they grow outside your window. And if you don’t have a lemon tree, your...
View ArticleThe Four Courses of the Apocalypse
Remembrance of Food Past: The Four Courses of the Apocalypse by Leo Racicot One of the glaring ironies of my life consisted of being pals with food goddesses Julia Child and M.F.K. Fisher, and yet not...
View ArticleCutting the Mustard
Cutting the Mustard by Gary Allen Mustard is second only to ketchup in the pantheon of popular condiments. All mustards start with seeds (of various colors and Brassica species). The suspended...
View ArticleBook Review: A Hastiness of Cooks, by Cynthia Bertelsen
Book Review: A Hastiness of Cooks by Margie Gibson I’ve flirted with historic cooking for years, but somehow, the relationship never took off. I would get frustrated by arcane language and ingredients...
View ArticleFood Favors Three, and So Do We
by Amy Cotler Three satisfies, inviting us to plunge in, while kindly reminding us of life’s impermanence, because soon there’ll be two, then one. One summer afternoon in New England I ran out to our...
View ArticleNeapolitan Ragù or Ragù Napolitano
Ragù (or Sugo) di Carne by Marlena Spieler Whether it’s Ragù Napolitano “Classico” or “Leggere,” this richly flavored sauce is a perfect example of traditional, long, slow-cooked (slow, very slow)...
View ArticleNana: A Love Story
by Leo Racicot Along with an uncanny mastery of seven languages perfected while she was a scholarship student at L’Université de Paris plus a crystalline singing voice that gained her entrée to the...
View ArticleA Woodcock, Girolles, A Baguette, and a French Inn
Bécasse*, a story in two parts: A Hundred Years of Bécasse: Part I by Dorette Snover I wanted to fix what was wrong, here, in this – this place, this time I remembered so well. When I loved. Where I...
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